Wednesday, September 1, 2010

WE'RE HOME


We’re going Home
We bused it back to Caracus from Marakay in the early hours of the morning, thanks to the IBAF. Then we flew back to Buenos Aries where we spent two, days revisiting our favourite spots, waiting for our flight home.

We had a great flight home after being upgraded to Business Class.
Because of wind problems, instead of flying across the continent to Australia, we flew south down the east coast of Argentina then across the Antarctic, around the south of New Zealand and north to Sydney. It was daylight for the whole trip.

On crossing the Antarctic, the pilot announced that we should open our windows for a perfect view of the pack ice and icebergs of the Antarctic below. It was a stunning view as the sun, low in the sky, shone across the continent picking out every crevice. A fantastic unexpected experience.

WE’RE HOME

The Tournament and the Shooting













WE'VE WON THE SILVER MEDAL







IV Campeonato Mundial de Beisbol Femenino

The first day of the tournament.
Having done our homework to find the stadium and the up to date itinerary, we arrived at the Casanova Stadium with a picnic lunch and tea so that we could watch all three games of the first day. This way we would get to see each of the teams in our draw play before our team faced them. Only to find the stadium swimming with officials, armed guards and TV coverage being set up but no teams anywhere in site. After a few words with some non English speaking but helpful people we found that the first two games had been moved to a stadium across town (a 45 min. $45 taxi ride away) because apparently the grounds were not ready and they were setting up for the opening ceremony. Only the Venezuelan game would be played at the ground that night. Ray chucked a hissy fit (universal language was used) after all our preparations and we had to turn around and work out how to get to the new venue. The change had only been arranged that day. It was in the papers – all Spanish of course. Even the girls didn’t know about it until they were in the bus and on the way to the ground. They began to realise it was taking a lot longer to get there than yesterday’s practice had.

We got ourselves on a bus, driving along the highway to the new ground, when a military escort of armoured vehicles and military police on motor bikes came along side and moved all the traffic over to allow a military convoy to go through. We noticed included in the escort was a white bus with all the windows blacked out and a big sign ‘Beisbol Feminino’ on the side. Could this be our daughters?
Sure enough when we eventually arrived at the ground (too late to see the first game) there were the white buses of both teams and the remains of the military escort milling around. The girls had already been whisked into the stadium under armed guard.

Up in the stands there was a huge crowd and dozens of armed police and military guards standing around in groups armed to the teeth with guns and automatic rifles.
Surely, I said to Ray, with so many guns some one is sure to get shot. It only takes one accident or wrong decision to make a tragic accident.

The crowd was huge and noisy and so chaotic, it was hard to concentrate on the game. Unfortunately for Australia they lost to Canada in a very hard fought game with the winning runs earned in one innings which they could not get back. We always knew Canada would be a hard team to beat but it was never the less disappointing to lose the first game of the tournament.

We cannot account for the huge crowd (rent-a-crowd I think). There are only 8 Australian parents here and maybe 10 or so Canadians. Who were all these people? And the racket they were making was unbelievable. They didn’t seem to be cheering for any particular team just lots of noise and chaos. By the end of the game our nerves were frazzled.

We were then expected to go back across town to Casanova Stadium for the opening ceremony and the Venezuelan/Holland game in the evening.
We didn’t make it. By the time we got back into the city the opening ceremony was over and we decided to watch the game on TV instead. The great thing about this tournament is that every game is televised real time. They love their baseball. The girls had been whisked away with their armoured escort (and told not to open the windows of the bus) to get to the ceremony on time.

Clare said it was the best of any opening ceremony she has been to, with dancing and entertainment and fireworks. I am sorry we missed it. Total disorganisation on the part of the Venezuelan organizers. We were totally fed up and exhausted. It had also been one of the hottest most humid days of our stay so far.

Day two of the tournament.
Held at the infamous Casanova Stadium.
We played Holland at 3pm and won 3-16. A good win, but they are one of the accepted weaker teams. Fortunately not as loud and chaotic as the first day but very security conscious. Starting to settle in for a good tournament.

Day three of the tournament - The Shooting
A very eventful day.
Australia due to play Venezuela in an evening game to start at 6 or 7 pm (Venezuelan time schedule).
We arrived at the field early to watch the last part of the game between Holland and Hong Kong only to find that the game hadn’t even yet started so we settled in to watch the game. The other Australian parents arrived and then the Australian team arrived and we were all sitting in the stands (a lovely balmy night) watching the game evolve. Hong Kong had been ahead by 9 runs, then Holland came back, evening the score and started to take the lead. At the start of the fourth innings Hong Kong on the field and Holland batting – the Hong Kong shortstop fell to the ground. There was no play in progress and as she was on the ground for no apparent reason, the coaches came onto the ground to assist her.

The girl was carried off on a stretcher and everyone started to sit up and take notice. We could hear an ambulance siren circling the stadium. The Hong Kong team vacated their dug out, followed by the Dutch team a few moments later.

News filtered up to the stands that it was suspected that the Hong Kong shortstop had been shot in the leg. No one had heard any shots but there was a lot of noise in the stands which could have blocked it out.
The Australian coach was horrified, along with everyone else, and he had the girls leave the stands where they were immediately ushered into the VIP rooms below the stadium. The parents were also asked to accompany the team and we were all kept in a lock down situation along with the Venezuelan team and most of the umpires and officials for about an hour or so, until it was established by way of a hospital report that in fact it was a 9mm high powered gunshot wound (entered at the knee and lodged near the ankle but fortunately, miraculously no serious damage).

After about an hour our girls were ushered into their armoured bus and under military escort were taken back to their hotel. We waited in the lock down for another hour for our drivers to arrive (they had trouble being allowed inside the area because of all the extra security). Their names had to be passed along to security so they could come into the area to pick us up and we all went home with the continuation of the tournament under a cloud.

There is talk of everyone going home. I am definitely not going anywhere until I know my daughter is safely on an aeroplane home. No one knows yet what instigated the incident. The stadium is in a very highly guarded military area. There have been armed police and military personal walking around in groups with guns and automatic rifles slung over their shoulders all week and yet something like this can happen right under their noses. Even while we were sitting in the stands watching the game there were at least ten or more armed guards in the stands with us. They look very official and intimidating but obviously not very observant, diligent or effective.

We are waiting now to hear what will become of the tournament. The girls are safe and sound in their hotel rooms and so are we.

Needless to say, we did not play the Venezuelan game.

Saturday – A day of meetings
All games are on hold until a decision can be made about the future of the tournament. IBAF and coaching staff are waiting for reports on the incident before they proceed. The Venezuelans swear that it was just a stray bullet and no malicious intent. The girls have been asked if they wish to play on. They are all spooked, but on a secret vote, most of them believe that, as long as there is no danger and with promised better security, they have worked too hard to go home now and they want to play.

Word is that the Venezuelan President has put his name to the tournament and if it were to be disbanded he would be humiliated and the Venezuelans don’t want this to happen. Heads would probably roll. They have promised to step up security, if that is possible. The new arrangements promised will be: armed guards set up on road blocks in a 2km radius of the stadium, armed guards in 200 metre radius of the field, armed guards in and around the stadium (which they already have anyway), guards on the field watching the crowds and a military helicopter circling the ground throughout the game. This is definitely a military state. The manpower is huge.







Sunday - Traveling to Marakay
After a day of discussions between team coaches, IBAF and then the Venezuelan organizers, they have decided that they would all feel a lot safer if the tournament was moved to Marakay (the city 2 hours away where the B section has been playing their first round). So, after much rearrangement, hotels have been found to house all the teams (that’s 5 teams of 25 each, umpires and officials plus the IBAF and organizers on top of the 5 teams already there with all their officials. On top of that the security people will have to be accommodated. It is no wonder that by the time the parents arrived (courtesy of the IBAF) there did not appear to be any rooms left in the city. We were in Marakay, but for about 5 hours we thought we might be all bunking in together. Eventually the hotel where the IBAF and a few of the teams were staying, who had no room for us, found us a room in a hotel not far from the main field. A couple of the parents were not happy but after a lot of talking and supporting, they decided to make the most of things, in a hotel that is much inferior to the palatial one they we happily staying in Caracus and we have formed a happy little support group, all staying together in the one hotel and going back and forwards to the games together – safety in numbers. There is a restaurant in the hotel, so at least we don’t have to go out for meals.

After one day of meetings and one day of relocating we are now 2 days behind schedule. Fortunately Tuesday was a designated rest day for everyone and the missed games will be rescheduled for then.

Our third game of the 1st round was now Chinese Taipie, which we won (4-1). A good win because they are a considered a strong team. We had to make our way to yet another military site , the Escuala de Aviacion. We took a taxi.

Our taxi fares are now starting to mount up but we are sharing 4 to a taxi. The other parents are quite nervous about their personal safety. Eventually Ray said we’re walking to the ground (a 20-30 minute walk) if for no other reason than that we need the exercise and it is what we have been doing for the past four months (getting out with the locals). Although we didn’t encourage them, the other parents one by one eventually decided to join us.

Tuesday, our 4th game, we play Venezuela at the main stadium, Jose Perez.
All the Venezuelan games are played at the 7pm time slot so the locals can attend.
We have never been in such a riotous atmosphere. The stands are full to over flowing, people are being turned away and security is at a premium.
We lost (7-1). Very disappointing, the Venezuelan team is a surprise package for us. This puts us in third position at the end of round 1. Not a good start.

I thought my head would split from the noise in the stadium. At one point a very loud band started up with drums and cymbols and brass instruments. We’re getting a bit crazy with it all, as soon as that band stopped another one started up on the other side of the stadium. The crowd is constantly blowing horns and making a huge noise. It never stops. I don’t know how the girls could concentrate because they kept up the noise all throughout the game. The Mexican wave is alive and well in Venezuela.

Wednesday Round 2 begins
We play Japan, a very strong team, they came in 2nd in their first round.
We won (10-9). We can’t believe our luck, after such a slow start. Non of the girls have been hitting well. We thought we might get a peaceful game but Venezuela were playing in the next game (2 hours later) and the crowd started to assemble during our game. By the time the game ended it was difficult to get out of the stadium, it was so crowded.

It was starting to get dark so four of the parents took a taxi home and the rest of us walked. We got home before their taxi arrived which ment they had been left standing on the street waiting. A sure target for danger – tomorrow we all walk.

Thursday Australia v Cuba
We need to win this game to get into the next round as our chances of beating USA are slim and we need to win at least 2 out of 3 games. Beating Cuba (1-6) gives us a reprieve and now the USA game will decide our standing only.

We have spent a nice quiet afternoon in the hotel and will meet the other parents for dinner tonight. We meet in the foyer to share computers and WiFi in our free time and have eaten all our meals together. We are a happy little group.

With the huge out of control crowds, we do not want to be the first team to beat Venezuela who has so far been undefeated. We also don’t want to be there if USA does. We fear for our safety and don’t think we would get out of the stadium alive.
Thank goodness it was Japan who eventually knocked them off the pedestal.

We beat USA by the 10 run rule (19-6).
We are the only team to have won all three games in this round.
This puts us into the top position for the finals medal games.
On a count back of points Japan gets first position.

Japan (1) plays USA (4)
Australia (2) plays Venezuela (3)

Clare opened the first finals game with the ceremonial first catch with the officials today.

We won our game with Venezuela (12-2). A very convincing win. The girls are really starting to fire now. This puts them into the grand final game and in definite medal contention. We waited in the stands until the crowd had dispersed before leaving.

The Grand Final is between Australia and Japan.
Our confidence is up with the knowledge that we won the last time we played them. Unfortunately Japan came out batting strongly in the first innings. Our pitcher couldn’t seem to throw a strike and the coach left it too long to change her over. The runs were made and we spent the rest of the game trying to catch up. We used five pitchers throughout the game, too many to feel confident. The rest of the game was really tight but we ended up losing (3-13). Although a bad loss, we have a good result.
We have won the silver medal.
The best result ever for Australia in a World Cup tournament.

The Closing Ceremony
Total chaos.
The crowds were unbelievable and totally out of control.
As soon as the game was finished the crowds of officials and TV personnel started to swarm onto the ground. There were so many people surrounding the podium that from our premium front position it was impossible to see anything of the medal presentation. The commentator asked the crowd three times to leave the arena and no one seemed to take any notice, so they went ahead anyway. We would have seen more watching it on TV.
The presentation of medals was followed by a huge fireworks display.
No expense spared.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Venezuela




Having decided to return a few days early, to attend Virginia's 50th birthday celebrations, we had changed our flights and were looking forward to going home. Not 24 hours after all the new arrangements were in place, we get a call from Clare that she has been selected for the Australian team and will be travelling to Venezuela in three weeks time to compete in the biannual World Cup Baseball Tournament. What to do? We have never missed one of her tournaments yet, so why stop now. Back to our very good friends at Qantas and Martin the local tourist agent.

It had been getting a bit cool in Buenos Aries so we thought it might be nice to go to Venezuela a bit early and soak up some of their Caribbean sunshine. Be careful what you wish for. It is very hot and humid here.

On arrival to our hotel in Caracas, we were immediately warned not to go out walking at night and to be careful on the streets. Security at the hotel is a premium with iron bars on all doors and windows and electric fencing around the top of the building.

Even the police cannot be trusted. During our stay a couple of tourists in our hotel were accosted by the police and asked for their passports. When they produced them, they then had to pay to get them back. Apparently a common occurrence.

The Venezuelan women have their own particular shape. A walk along the very busy main plaza shows 99% of the women here have very large thighs, huge bums and big boobs which they love to flash. The dress of the day is tight jeans and tight fitting low cut t-shirt tops that show every bulge and they are proud of it. They are very beautiful and well dressed but big girls.

The poverty here is obvious. There are lots of homeless people sleeping in the streets including women and children.

Caracas is the only city in Venezuela that has a metro but it works beautifully and is very cheap. Once we found it, we were using it all the time.

There is always a noise factor living in the city but the noise that seemed to affect me the most here was the numerous ice cream vendors. They push a little cart along with a series of bells attached to the top and they tinkle them nonstop. The noise is very high pitched and goes right through you. I must be getting tired because it was driving me mad. I would cheerfully have shoved it somewhere unpleasant given half a chance.

Rubbish in the streets is horrific. There are no bins and people just throw their bags of rubbish on the street corner for collection. It is collected every couple of days but not before the homeless and stray dogs have pulled it to bits and strewn rubbish all over which of course doesn’t get picked up. Added to this problem, I am told, is that after the rubbish has been collected it is dumped anywhere in the countryside because they don’t have official rubbish dumps.


THE LOST STADIUM - Jose A. Casanova Estadium
We found it at last, hidden deep within the Caracas military barracks.
(Venezuela's answer to the nuclear war??)
During our first week in Caracas, before the tournament started, we spent three days looking for the stadium. When we asked anyone, they had never heard of it and when we googled it we came to a dead end. Finally we went to the Minister for Tourism (Mintour - a bunch of true public servants). They knew of the tournament (considering they were handling the tourism for it) but had no idea where the stadium was. After spending an hour trying to find out for us, they said they would endeavour to find more information and we should come back on Thursday.
We spent the next two days finding our way around the metro and getting used to the city. On Thursday we went back for the promised answer. The information we got was "ring this number - they have some information, but not much" and of course they only speak Espanol. This from the department who are responsible for tourism for the tournament (they have huge posters advertising the tournament all over the airport and metro stations). On our way out of the government building complex, on a whim, we decided to pop into one of the other Tourism Departments (Intour). The people there were a little more helpful but only because another customer at the service counter overheard the conversation and said that if it was in Feurte Tiuna (which we had already established) they knew where that was but not the stadium. So with their instructions, all in Spanish and lots of hand waving, we spent the next day getting to Feurte Tiuna (a military base in the outskirts of the city - and a very nice area). We took the metro, arrived at the correct stop and started walking in the given direction. After about 6 km in the hot sun we found the Feurte Tiuna sign and a very long military parade area. We came to a hotel near a beautiful lake with huge turtles, fish and lots of ducks and birds - time for a rest and lunch. We asked at the hotel and they pointed us in the direction of the closest baseball field which turned out to be a softball field (I must say, this field would be a great disappointment if the tournament were to be held there). There were some men there about to start a game. We asked them, and they had no idea. We were starting to get very tired and frustrated by this time. By chance I overheard one of the men, speaking in Spanish, say ‘if it's a baseball tournament it will be at the Casanova Stadium’. Hearing the word "Casanova" I spun on him for more information. With a lot of difficulty they gave us more directions. After about another 2 km along the military parade area (which is huge) we saw the lights of the stadium in the distance. When we eventually got there we were wrapped - it was a very impressive stadium, in immaculate condition. We walked around it and sat and had a coffee in one of the small cafes attached to the stadium and just wallowed in our good fortune at finding it at last.

FEURTE TIUNA
This military area is so different to the rest of Caracas that you would think yourself in a different country – none of the poverty is obvious and all the roads and buildings are in good condition. It is a place to educate the military services – air force, navy, army, military police and special forces – and there has obviously been a lot of money put into developing the area. A full military parade on the parade ground would be a magnificently huge display of military might and power. Puts you in mind of war time Russia.






Sunday, August 1, 2010

Colonia Uruguay







Could have spent a lot longer in this lovely little town. Unfortunately we had already prepaid our tickets back to Buenos Aires. There is a beautiful historic area on the tip of the peninsula with Portuguese background. It was lovely to walk around the area and sit in the old plazas. We took a long walk (6km) along the beach to the old bullring further around the bay. Watching the sun set over the marina was very beautiful and theraputic.






We stayed in one of the nicest hotels so far. It was a lovely renovated building with old world character and very good facilities. They put on a BBQ dinner for guests, it was a great way to meet people. We thought Australians eat a lot of meat. It was a lovely meal.



We wondered why our Spanish seemed to have taken a dive. They speak Portuguese here.

Montevideo Uruguay







Took the 3 hour ferry across Rio de la Plata to Uruguay for a few days. Bused it to Montevideo. Nice city with an old port area, some lovely plazas and lots of nice beaches. We were there for Ray`s 61st birthday. Unfortunately he had the scare of his life (a great present). To explain: we had gone to the 24th floor for a panoramic view of Montevidio, which by the way was a fabulous 360 degree view. As we stepped into the lift to go up and it became obvious by the 2nd floor that the glass lift was on the outside of the building. Bad enough for a person with a fear of heights. But, to make matters worse, on the trip down, the lift stopped at the 22nd floor. We rang the emergency bell but no answer. After about 5-10 minutes of shear hell waiting, continual ringing of the emergency buzzer and no answer, we decided that the red stop button had to be flicked. Making that decision was a nightmare (would we start free falling?). Fortunately the lift continued on it`s way and we got off at the bottom with absolutely no one aware of our dilemma. We thought at the very least there would be emergency paramedics and police emergency abseilers at the ready. The lift didn`t even have an emergency phone in it.

Happy Birthday Ray. Where are the baƱos?

Monday, July 19, 2010

Iguazu Falls







Took an overnight bus (very comfortable with airline service) to Iguazu to see the falls.
Spent the first afternoon indoors because it was very wet.

Next day our tour of the falls was still very wet. We travelled through the Argentinian jungle reserve to get there. Travelling through the jungle when it´s raining is an experience in itself. The falls were spectacular and it took all day to see them completely. They have lots of metal boardwalks so that you can get right into the area. Some of the up close and personal views were a bit damp to say the least. At one stage we got drenched. There is so much power in the water that it causes lots of rising mist and it blocks out the view of the bottom of the falls.

We had a BBQ in our hotel for dinner that night. We just jagged it in for this wonderful Argentinian/Brasilian experience (came on the right day I think).

I missed the photo of a lifetime (forgot to take my camera to dinner).
They had a Samba cabaret performance that we did not expect.

There was a lot of audience participation and to start it off they picked people out to be part of the cabaret performance before the dancing. Ray was selected with three other guys. The very well endowed dancing girls with next to nothing on except a fancy headdress and spangly G-strings, gave them the thrilling experience of a life time. Ray had to wipe the steam from his glasses to see what was happening to him.
This will be dinner conversation fodder for many months to come.

Ray thought he had got away without being noticed too much, until we checked out next morning and the girl at reception, recognizing him, greeted him with "Oh the Dancer!!" - sprung!! - the famous Samba dancer extraordinaire.




The dancing was fun too. Pity about my camera, I could have had the proof.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Buenos Aires









After many flights we have at last arrived in Buenos Aires, Argentina.


We are going to take a few days just chilling out, staying in the San Telmo area, the older part of the city, where most of the action happens. Turns out the weather is chilly too. A bit like Melbourne weather in the winter.


San Telmo is in the old section, lots of antique book shops and we have found a lovely cafe/wine bar that favours literary academics and is dedicated to a local writer Jorges Borges. It is called La Poesias (The Poet) and has a warm cosy atmosphere and just right for coffee or drinks before dinner after long touristy walks in the afternoons. We have also found the restaurant with, we think, the best Argentinian steaks in town. They are very big on steaks here.


We are going to take a different section each day.


Sunday morning is the time for the outdoor antique markets in San Telmo square. The whole place is given over to these small antique markets and there is tango music and dancing demonstrations happening all over. Also lots of antique shops in and around this area.


La Boca. This working class area originally populated by Italian dock workers is a colourful center of art and tango restaurants. The brightly coloured metal houses were inspired by the painter Benito Quinquela Martin after he painted his own home which has now become an arts museum in the area. It has a lovely party atmosphere even in the afternoon.


The Puerto Madero or port area with the four diques (dikes pronounced here deeks) is reminiscent of our Southbank area; very trendy restaurants and tango clubs overlooking the waterfront and has a much more modern commercial look than the rest of the city with its new high rise buildings dominating the area.



Recoleta Cemetery Area is one of the great cemeteries of the world. Many of Argentina's notables are buried here in this city of mausoleums including Eva Peron and her family. Pretty spooky to walk around these streets of mini buildings. You can look through the glass and wrought iron doors of the individual family crypts at the coffins sitting on shelves. Huge amounts of money would have been spent on these structures.


We have worked out how to use the Subt (the underground subway). It costs p$1.10 (26 cents Australian) per viaje (voyage) anywhere in the city and is very efficient.

Plaza San Martin is a nice shady plaza in the heart of the city dominated by a huge 300 year old Morton Bay Fig tree. Apparently Borges lived near here. We sat on the grass and watched a World Cup futbol match between Uraquay and Spain on a huge screen next to the plaza. Then we walked back via the Calle Florida the 'Paris of the South' with its exquisit leather shops, international fashion boutiques and fabulous old mansions. Nice place for window shopping.



This afternoon we attended the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. On thursday afternoons at 3.30 pm the mothers of the disappeared still march every week, after 10 years, in the Plaza de Mayo. There is a short speech afterwards and the long list of names of the missing is read out in memory of those who mysteriously disappeared during those turbulent times. I was very emotionally affected by the sad plight of these mothers. Ten years ago it would have been dangerous just to have been seen in the plaza with them.

Went to a Tango show tonight. Starts with a Milonga, Salza classes then tango classes, then the show comes on at 2 am (too late for us). The classes were great though. Ray has decided it`s not his thing.

Getting ready for our trip to Venezuela.






Saturday, July 10, 2010

Amazon Jungle





















Day 1.

Arrived at the Resort. All the buildings are on stilts and made of wood. No glass windows just fly screens over very large open areas. Apparently the whole area is under 6 feet of water during the wet season. The stilts are supposed to keep out the snakes. (I hope it works.)

Joze, our personal guide, was at our beck and call for the whole stay.

We walked through the jungle to a reserve for injured animals. The animals are free to roam as they please but seem to like it there so they stay around. We saw anteaters, monkeys, sloth, anaconda, boa constrictor, macaw, toucan and caimen all very close up. The little monkeys were very playful and ran up your leg to sit on you shoulder looking for the bananas we held.

On the way back we called into the nearby village to watch the end of a game of soccer being played by the villagers. The whole village was out to watch - a big day for them and partying at night.

Later that evening we had dinner with the only other people at the resort Nienka and Martin from Holland. There is only enough rooms for 4 couples at the resort.



Day 2.

Took a 5 hour long hike through the secondary jungle looking for medicine plants and bird watching. Joze is very knowledgeable about these things. The area was very swampy and our guide had to hack away the path as we progressed through the jungle. It was very spooky. The swampy areas were quite deep and we had to be careful not to let the water go over the top of our jungle boots (gumboots we bought in Iquitos before we left). He would cut a long stick with his machete and lay it across the swamp which we had to try to balance on as we went along. I was exhausted at the end of it.

In the afternoon we took a boat ride to see the pink and grey freshwater dolphins. We went swimming and watched the sunset over the Amazon from the boat - very theraputic.

We played cards with Nienka and Martin and the guides in the evening for entertainment.

The only power is when they run the generator at night for lighting.



Day 3.

We got up early for bird watching before breakfast.

The morning was spent fishing for piranha. Between us we caught 22 fish, only 3 of them being piranhas. It was great fun and a very relaxing way to spend the morning. We spotted more dolphins too. Out on the boat is the only relatively cool spot to be found.

In the afternoon we went canoeing up the Black river to the primary jungle (untouched jungle because no one lives here and it is left pristine. There are huge trees with buttress roots and lots of vines hanging down, which you have to avoid as you walk.

In the evening we went out night watching for toads, huge spiders, snakes and caimen.
Really good stuff just before you go to bed.



Day 4.

Boated over the Amazon to see the giant water lilies.
In the afternoon we trekked deep into the jungle to a native village. Native drums warned of our approach. We watched the native dancing and saw a blowgun demonstration. They are very good shots. Jose had explained on one of our previus walks how they poison the darts with the sap from certain trees and the skin of a toad.

Iquitos on the Amazon


We arrived in the afternoon to a very hot tropical atmosphere - same temperature day and night - constant sweating is the norm.



The only way into this city is by plane or by boat. There are no roads into this city, therefore there are not many cars here. Most of the vehicles are either motor bikes or motorbike rickshaws called MotoKars. They have the same attitude to lanes as in Cusco - namely they ignore them and pedestrians definitely do not have right of way.



On the first afternoon we went for a walk around the town and had dinner at the Explorers Club on the Esplanade overlooking the Amazon. It was very relaxing and nice to have some time to ourselves for a change.



We met our guide Joze Diaz, a very friendly person, so much so that initially we were a bit nervous of him. Eventually we got used to the very friendly service when we noticed it was common with all the people here, even in the hotels.

It is a very relaxing atmosphere, everything happens slowly.

There is a house here in the plaza de amas (the Iron House) which was designed and built by Mr. Eifel of the Eifel Tower of Paris Eifel. It was bought and transported to Iquitos during the great rubber rich era.

Our last week in the Volunteer House





Spent the last weekend shopping at the red craft market on Avenue de Sol and walking around Cusco. Had a last coffee on the terrace of the Roof Top Cafe overlooking Cusco and the surrounding mountains. On Sunday we went to the black market to buy watches and shoes for Ray.


Monday and Tuesday we tried to complete some of the construction work we have been involved in during our stay here. Ray is fretting about how the garden will fare, especially as every time he needs it the water is not running.


Wednesday was farewell Day.
It happens every month, but it still made me cry. There were lots of speaches - the Director (Head Master), Pip and the children - mostly Espanol. The children sang songs, accompanied by the Head Master on the guitar and this time they requested we dance with them.


We (the volunteers) sat on a bench in front of the assembly and the children presented us with cards and flowers then the whole school filed by and each child gave us a big hug. There is no end to their affection. The ones we have a special rapport with wanted special hugs and photos. My special favourites to name a few are Cynthis, Baylis, Erica, Rosemary, Maria, Yenny, Carlos, Christian, Sebastion and Marcelano.

Everyone was emotional on our last bus trip back down the hill with the children waving goodbye.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) 24th June 2010




There have been festivals and fireworks on everyday in Cusco this month. The Plaza de Amas is always crowed with festivities.

The main festival for the year is INTI RAYMI held in honour of the Sun. It is an old Inkan festival and is still held in very high regard amongst Peruvians.
The whole of Cusco closes and attends the procession along with hundreds of tourists.

The choose an Inkan King (usually an elder of true Inkan decent)son of the sun father of the multitudes, to lead the procession. There is alot of pomp and ceremony and a cast of thousands. The procession starts at Intikancha (the Temple of the Sun) and proceeds to Haukaypata in the plaza de amas where there is more pomp and ceremony and thanks giving to the sun. After that they move onto Saqsaywaman (pronounced sexywoman) a huge old Inkan site, where there were literally millions of people waiting for the main event. They make offerings to the sun amid much dancing and ceremonial beating of drums and blowing of conche shells.

We arose at 6am to arrive at the site, by walking up lots of very steep stairways through the town up to the mountain which overlooks Cusco to where the main and final ceremony would take place at 2pm. A very long wait. There were already lots of people there and we staked out our area on the hill overlooking the site in readiness. But in true Peruvian style the minute things started to happen all that went to the dogs and it was a free for all. We could have bought tickets for US100 but we chose to sit with the plebs. It was much more interesting. The area we were in was more tourists, but the area which the locals claim as their own was an experience to walk through. They were cooking food for the picnic and some of the stuff they had there I had never seen before but it looked very interesting and if I wasn´t so obsessed with germs I would love to have tried some of it. They had roasted coy (guinea pig), lots of different fried things, all sorts of nuts and seeds and the local home made alcohol (chicha) made from maize (not something I will be trying anytime soon).

At 2pm the procession arrived and the main ceremony began for the offerings to the Sun God. The Inka arrived, preceded by the women who sweep the ground before him, accompanied by all his entourage and hundreds of dancers and musicians.

The offerings started with Coca leaves and asking the Sun God for advice.
The Inka invites the Lords from the four regions of the Empire to report on their regions and they ask the Sun for better days.
After this they have the Chicha rite and the ritual of the sacred fire then they sacrifice the llama (we´re still not sure if they really killed him - it was all very cloak and dagger). After this the Sun God´s advice is revealed, and that is: to govern with prudence, justice and honour.

They then purify themselves with the rite of the Sankhu made from the whitest corn of the harvest. They thank the Sun God for his kindness with more dancing and musical ceremony. The dancing is a sight to behold and the archaeological site where it is held is magnificent.

The crush to exit the site and get back down the steps to Cusco was mind blowing. To look back from a distance, as we descended the hill behind the site, was like watching an ant hill on the move.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Home visit to Lucia Monday 21st June 2010



This morning I had art class with grades 5 and 6. As it is festival month in Cusco, we did posters of all the different festivals happening this month. The kids seem to enjoy it.
June is Cusco´s month for festivals, including the favous Inti Raymi sun festival. There is a festival on every day and the plaza de ames in Cusco is always crowed.

In the afternoon I was on community work.
We took a bed (with mattress, sheets, pillow and blanket) to a family in need.
They live in the Pumamarca village. The house is a reasonable size compared to some, although it is made of mud brick and has dirt floors and no doors or windows.

The mother has a brain tumor, caused by eating tainted pork. She was operated on but she needs another operation and the village is trying to help raise money for the operation. She is the only Peruvian lady I have seen that does not have long black plaits (her hair was cut for the operation). The tumor is benign but it keeps growing and is affecting her short term memory. When we arrived Iris (the social worker) asked her where her husband was and his name and she couldn´t remember. It was very sad. Her husband works his own fields, which feeds his family, but he does not have another job where he can raise any money.

They have four children who go to the Pumamarca school. At the moment the four children (2 boys and 2 girl aged 10 to 2 years) sleep in the one single bed with a hard woven straw base. The bedroom is a small mudbrick room with a dirt floor, which also serves as a storage room for potatoes that are piled up in a corner on the dirt floor. The bed we brought to them was for the boys and they were so excited about it and thrilled with the colourful sheets we brought. We had to erect the bed and make it up for them and they kept getting in the way trying to help.

I know the children from school and it is always interesting to see where they live when they are not at school. At school they all seem like normal happy kids. You would never imagine their circumstances. I think the little 10 year old girl has already taken on a lot of responsibilities along with the older boy.
They remember me from school and their excitement about amiga Jenny coming to their house was very touching.

I always get very emotional when I go on these visits. I have been doing it twice a week during our stay and it is always tragic. You cannot imagine the plight of these people unless you see it for yourself. The past governments have a lot to answer for. Hopefully in time things will improve, although with the present government I do not hold out much hope.

The Roads





These photos were taken on the walk back from the Pumamarca village.




All the roads in Cusco are rough and pot holed, except of course for the Plaza de Amas which is beautifully stone paved from the Inkan and Spanish colonial times. The road in front of the volunteer house is made, but most roads in the area are not. They are all rough dirt roads.

The main road to Cusco is a divided highway, but it is very rough, rocky, dusty and potholed all the way. There are no lines marked, and all traffic lanes are very haphazard. It is not abnormal for three lanes to become four or five and there is always someone trying to butt into any space they can see. Horns are used frequently as indicators and notice that you are going to be cut off or that you are getting too close or just in case you didn´t see them. Fortunately they do not usually drive all that fast, but they will drive down the smallest alleys without hesitation, blowing the horn regularly to indicate they are coming through and for pedestrians and animals to get out of the way. The suspension in most cars and buses is wrecked with good reason. It is rare to see a good car and they are soon wrecked because of the rough roads.

The road up to the community is a very rough dirt track that winds it´s way up into the mountains. We have to keep the windows closed to avoid choking with the dust created. We always arrive with a very dry throat. It is not uncommon to be held up by farmers or their wives and children with livestock along the way including cows, bulls, sheep, llamas, donkeys, pigs and chooks.

Dogs are allowed to roam free all over the villages and the city alike. They are domesticated but they roam in packs and there is always a dog to be seen sleeping somewhere, even on the main roads. One time I counted 7 dogs in a pack wandering backwards and forwards across the main road which is 3 lanes wide either side. The cars just go around them.

The Volunteer House

The volunteer house is situated in one of the nicer sections of Cusco, approximately half an hour by taxi from the plaza de armas (main square). The buses cost 60 centimes per person, this equates to approximately 20 cents. Taxis can cost anywhere from S/.5 to S/.10 (AUS 1.75 to AUS 3.50) depending on the time of day. It is more expensive late at night.

There are three apartments in the house. Each has its own kitchen and bathroom which is shared. Most people share a room with one other person. Last month there were 15 volunteers and this month there are 11 of us.

WATER
Water in the house is one of the main concerns for us. The only hot water in the house is in the showers (if its working). Even when we have hot water for showers, it is not always that hot. Most of my showers here have been tepid.

The kitchen tap has a special filter attached, but it is not drinkable, it is for washing dishes only. The kettle has to be boiled to wash the dishes, then boiled again to rinse the dishes off, which are then left to air dry.

Every now and then the water goes off and there is no water, even to flush toilets, in which case we get buckets of water from outside and flush the toilets with a jug.
Speaking of toilets, one does not flush paper down the toilet. This would lead to clogging of the system. Used toilet paper is put into a bin beside the toilet and emptied regularly. That goes for all over Cusco.

Needless to say our clothes are all washed by hand, in cold water and that includes jeans.

ELECTRICITY
All the electrical plugs are dodgy. We have blown more than one power board since we have been here and you always approach with caution.
The computers in the house are also touch & go. If it´s not the electricity it´s the internet connection.

Santusa, the house cleaner, also doubles as an occasional cook. From time to time she will cook a banquet for the whole house in true Peruvian style. She also makes great cakes.

At least our beds are warm and comfortable and we have our privacy.
Each apartment has a TV, although it´s all in Spanish we have lots of videos.

We have beautiful views of the Andes from both the back and front of the house as Cusco is situated in a valley between two mountain ranges and the views are spectacular.

It takes approximately 30 minutes to get to the mountain community each morning. We all go up in a 15 seater van together.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Dancing Festival Wednesday 16th June 2010





This month is Festival month in Cucso. There are festivals and fireworks every weekend in Cusco and the plaza is always crowded.

Schools from all over Cusco were competing in the dance festival today. Some of the them were private schools and there were quite a few big catholic schools with lots of beautiful costumes. Our kids from Pumamarca were certainly the poor relations but they enjoyed themselves and did a great job. The rest of their school had the day off.

We met up with the dance group (mostly grade 5 and 6) before they started, then followed them as they progressed around the plaza performing their dancing in thanks for the river and all it brings. Their dance emphasized children and monkeys. The children were delighted to have a following (non of their parents could come), we threw confetti and chanted for them like a bunch of over indulgent parents.

After the festival we came home to take our Spanish lesson.
In the evening we all went to The Real McCoys for Trivia Night and dinner.

Tuesday 15th June 2010

Construction was the agenda for today.
We helped with painting in the new kitchen. It is almost finished now. As usual we were running out of the materials we needed to finish, but we did what we could.
Spanish lessons in the afternoon.

Ray, Jackie and I were rostered to buy the supplies and organise the making of lunch packages for the children participating in the schools dancing festival, to be held in the main plaza of Cusco tomorrow.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Lake Titticaca and homestay photos





Photo 1. Ray dancing with Anna
Photo 2. Grandpa Anna and Grandma our homestay hosts
Photo 3. The group all dressed up for the party